​As I've shared with some of you, having experienced museums as "babysitters" growing up and then working as a museum professional through college, I'm not as enthusiastic about museum tours as some, but the Cairo museum is a classic, and it's about to be replaced by an ultramodern structure out on the Giza Plateau, about a kilometer from the pyramids.

The building is classic - begun in 1897 (the year my grandmother was born) and completed in 1901. Big old glass cases with typed 3x5 cards as labels house some of the greatest treasures of the world, ranging from the oldest historical documentations carved on stone plaques to the remains of full-size wooden funerary boats and tiny stone and ceramic amulets, to the solid gold equipment around the mummy of Tutankhamen. The exhibit halls are grand, several stories high, with skylights and frosted windows providing natural light, and house fans keeping the air moving: only the mummy rooms are air conditioned.

Our guide was enthusiastic and a wonderful teacher, making, as one retired middle-school teacher said "it all come alive." His obvious love of the material made the even less-than-exciting displays truly worth experiencing. 

I could see lots of opportunities for research, but was hampered by the lack of dates on the labels. Old Kingdom? New? When were these metal arm gauntlets made? Roman times or earlier? What about this wonderful funerary jar that looks like a dancing bear? Ah, it was in King Tut's tomb... Check out the elongated skulls on these mummies! Not all of them, but enough to be noticeable. And no, Akhnaten was not 14' tall - his sarcophagus is barely 6' long, and it's shaped like a normal man, without the exaggerated hips of the carved images.  

3 hours later we emerged into a fairly cool late afternoon and headed out to our bus. There's 16 of us, including our guide and government-appointed "escort", both of whom are very patient with this herd of cats.

The bus took us into the heart of Cairo, where the streets are a thousand years old and the mosques are even older. We will see a bit of the great mall: the Khan Khalili, while heading to an old coffee shop, famous as a writers' hangout for a couple centuries. The door is barely identifiable, but Sara, the trip's organizer, knows it well. The doorman lets us in and we take over one whole wall of benches, low tables, and chairs. Turkish coffee, tea, Koffee Arabica, and an odd beverage made of tomato broth with chickpeas in the bottom of the cup are the highlights, with a small tray of bhaklava and related pastries to share.

When we finally emerged to tour parts of the market, the sky was dark, but the streets and shops were very well lit. As in most hot countries, life begins at sunset - well at least the shopping does. :)

"Scarf?" "T-shirts?" "Spend your money here!" "Christmas ornaments - I have beautiful Christmas ornaments!" "Come and look - it's free!" "No? How can I take your money?" Such were the words coming at us from all sides as we wandered down the narrow lanes. But Sara had a particular place in mind, a shop up above the street, on a terrace over a courtyard, that she discovered 20 years ago - with an owner she trusts: Jordi's. It's maybe 10' wide and 25' long, with a long counter down the middle and 5-6 customers already in it... another 15 of us? You've got to be kidding!

But we dutifully eased our way in, checking out the tourist items, which are, after all, very nicely priced. He offered us tea, which most of us refused, but a few of us found pretties to take home to friends and family and then got out of the way so others could explore.

Out in the market again, our guide takes us to his favorite spot: a tiny little courtyard with a beautiful old mosque - and a clear view of the ancient cobblestone street. 

​One amazing day after another!

Boarded the plan for Rome on the morning of October 1st, having left my phone behind... so from the beginning this trip is very different: the first in years where I was simply experiencing, not constantly in touch and sharing with you wonderful folks. 

The flight was typical: long and reasonably uncomfortable, with lots of movies to watch on the screen in the seat in front of me, my feet up on the bag I stashed under that same seat, and nice folks on either side. 

Got to Rome 11 hours after leaving the coast, noonish their time, gathered my bags (one for cool eather and one for hot) and was helped through the process of buying the train ticket into Rome proper and on to Milan. So another few hours of transport later, I arrived at an amazing train station, gathered up my bags again, and got a taxi to where I was staying - only to find that I could have walked i

After unloading my bags I wandered out to explore - and find a meal. Ended up in a restaurant across the plaza from the magnificent building that is the Milan Central Station - and is almost identical to Union Station in D.C. :)  The local specialty, braised shank on Risotto Al Milanese, was served on a covered patio with a delicious local wine - and, as usual, was far too much for me to eat (or drink!) My very kind water, looking like a young John Travolta, was disappointed that I didn't clean my plate and order dessert but grudgingly gave me my check as requested :)

I wandered back to my room in the early dusk, feeling totally safe on these well lit streets and broad sidewalks. It helped that I had read an article in the plane's magazine explaining the city's plan to become totally "green" - including an projected layout that conforms to my suggestions in the book HOME.

The train to Varenna left early the next morning, so I was out before dawn, again feeling totally safe. I checked my hot-weather bag so only had the one to get up and down various stairs to and from platforms and the agent insisted that I sit and have some tea and a croissant so I wouldn't have to wait so long at the station. Really nice people, everywhere!

The sun came up as the train made its way through the Lombardy countryside, and glowed on the mountains ahead. Felt like I was in northern New Mexico or Arizona - except that there were many more houses and apartment buildings and all the roofs were red tile and the walls were shades of tan.

I grew up reading aft history textbooks and historical novels set in ancient civilizations, and visiting the Oriental Institute, Field Museum, and Art Institute in Chicago. Then I earned a degree in anthropology and now work as an Interfaith minister, writing books about how the culture of empire is coming to an end - and I've never been to the lands where the great early empires developed.... until now.
The month of October and a bit of November will be spent journeying through parts of Italy, Greece, and Egypt and I'm prepared to experience the past, present, and future as it unfolds in those rich environments. It's about time!
My plan is to upload something here every few days - and send emails to as many people as I can -- to document and share this journey, so come back and visit!